When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.
The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.
“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.
The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.
It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.
The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.
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